I’ve never used a desiccant in storing my books as I live in a relatively dry climate (although after writing this I’m now seriously thinking about it) but it’s certainly something worth considering if you’re planning to store your books for any length of time in a climate prone to humidity or excessive damp.

There are a number of commercial products that one can find in prepackaged form which can be placed in your boxes with your books.  Salt is a common desiccant and is a natural antibiotic and anti-fungal agent as well which is why it is commonly used in the preservation of food.  Rice is another low-cost desiccant and you can easily make small packets of either tied up in a piece of porous cloth to pack with your books.

Thanks to ScifiDrive for this comment on an added precaution for protecting ones books in storage.

Long Term Storage

As much as we love to have our books near us and at hand to admire and reference there will almost inevitably come a time you have to put a number of books in storage for a time. If you must store your books in boxes there are a number of things to keep in mind to maintain your books in a clean and healthy state.

When selecting cartons for storage make sure they are well constructed, preferably with reinforced seams, and on the small side. Books are heavier than they look and keeping your individual containers small will help prevent the likelihood of injury both to the box of books and to you.

Ideally books should be packed into boxes just as they would on the shelf, which is to say, upright and resting on their bottom edge. Often this will lead to a gap between the top of the books and the lid of the box. Using “filler” like bubble-wrap or air-filled plastic bags (like the ones Amazon.com uses for shipping) can help support the lid of the box if others are stacked on top. Avoid stacking too many boxes as the weight will crush the containers underneath.

In addition, be careful not to over pack your boxes and never force a book into a space that is too small for it. If packing books for a short period of time, say during a move, you may wrap books in newspaper or bubble wrap for protection against rubbing. However it’s not a good idea to store newspaper-wrapped books for longer periods as the newsprint can become acidic, damaging the book. For longer storage, acid-free tissue paper is available from many archival suppliers.  I list a number of them on the Resources page of my web site Collecting Science Fiction Books.

Avoid storing your boxes in the basement or attic if possible unless the space is climate controlled. Remember, if you don’t want to live there, then neither do your books. Try and keep boxes off the floor on raised shelves or pallets to minimize exposure to insects and moisture and protect the one on top from sprinkler heads, heaters and windows. Restrain from stacking too many boxes as the weight of those above will crush the containers underneath.  If your books are in a commercial storage facility attempt to find a space that is close to the middle of the building, as far away from insects and weather as possible. In addition, arrange frequent visits to check up on conditions and make rearrangements as necessary.

I highly recommend that you clearly label your boxes so you’ll be able to locate individual books later on. Generally a box number and the authors’ surnames it contains is enough to locate the appropriate container. I also recommend keeping an index of your collection either by hand or on a computer. There are a number of software programs available to keep track of bibliographical and storage location information for your collection. Not only will such a record be helpful in hunting for books to add to your collection but it will be invaluable when trying to locate a single book amongst several boxes in storage.

By and large books are pretty resilient but they can be damaged through neglect and careless handling.  However with a little forethought, a little effort and a little care, you can help the books you love retain their sparkle and extend their life.  Every collector understands the importance of a book’s condition and almost every book owner wants to keep the books they own looking their best.  I hope this series has given you a few tips on keeping your books in the condition you wish for as long as you have them.

Occupo Libri!

Care and Storage Series: Part 1  Part 2  Part 3

Environment

As a basic rule of thumb, if you feel comfortable, so will your books. If the environment is too extreme – too hot, too dusty, too damp, – you wouldn’t want to live there and neither is it a good place for your books.

Heat will dry out the glue or boards and cause warping and discoloration; layers of dust can be abrasive and attract moisture leading to mold.  It is a good idea to incorporate cleaning your books and shelves with your normal household cleaning routine.

Dusting done on a regular basis can be done gently with a clean cotton cloth or a clean feather duster.  Avoid using a household vacuum cleaner (even with handheld attachments) as the power of the average vacuum can easily further damage weak or delicate book jackets and spines.

Some collectors I know use a small handheld vacuum such as one used for computer keyboards.  These have considerably less power than the household variety and can be useful for edges and gutters with less chance of injury.  Care is the watchword here.

A low powered hair dryer may also be used if the unit has a no-heat/low power setting.  These devices can be useful for blowing away accumulated dirt and grime from deckled (rough or uncut) edges, decorated boards or any part of a book you would prefer not to touch directly.

High humidity in the environment can also promote mold and attract insects, whereas extremely low humidity, as found above hot radiators and next to heaters, can dry out glues and leather bindings.  As a rule of thumb, if you find the climate pleasant chances are your books will too.

Direct sunlight or light with a high ultraviolet index will break down paper, cloth and leather and fade colors. Known as “sunning”, it the most common cause of damage to older books other than physical damage caused by mishandling, and is frequently seen as a lightening of the spine of a book or dust jacket as pictured on the left.

Avoid shelving books in direct sunlight or, if necessary cover them with a drape or cloth.

Barrister cases or glass enclosed cases should be opened periodically to allow the air to circulate and to allow the books to be dusted and inspected for mold and insects.

Boric acid is a simple preventative against most pests. A small, open container, tucked in the free space between your books and the back of the shelf, will help keep insects away. A clove or two of garlic per shelf may also help.

The general rule stated at the beginning is worth repeating; keep your books in the same environment that you would prefer to live in yourself.  Books that are keep clean and comfortable and treated gently and with respect will be healthy and happy for many, many years.

As much as we love to have our books near us and at hand there may come a time when we have to put a number of books in storage for a time.  In the final part of this series I will address the dos and don’ts of long-term storage.

Until then, Occupo Libri!

Care and Storage Series: Part 1  Part 2

Shelving

Common sense, and common practice, says that your books should be placed upright on the shelves. Your books should sit a few inches away from the back of the case or wall to allow for good circulation and safe removal from the shelf. They should not be allowed to lean, which puts undue strain on the spine, but should stand upright on their bottom edge in neat vertical rows.

Shelves should be arranged so that they are full, but not so tight that damage is incurred when books are removed. If the shelf is not full, use a bookend with a large flat surface that can be placed next to the last book to support it and hold it upright.

Oversized books can pose a special problem. Oversized hardcovers should be shelved resting on their spines to prevent the text from pulling out of the binding due to its weight. Oversized soft-bound books can also be shelved spine down but may be shelved resting on their fore edge assuming the pages are straight-cut and will not be damaged by the weight of the book.

In either case, the book should be well supported on both sides to prevent sagging and warping. If the oversized book absolutely must be stored laying flat, avoid stacking other books on top, no matter how attractive the arrangement may appear.  The weight from above will put undue pressure on the boards and spine of the book below.

Although shelves made of metal are preferred by most libraries and rare book archives your shelves at home are most probably going to be made of wood. Wooden shelves should be sealed with a lacquer or a coating to prevent the migration of acids into the books. Oak, though very attractive, has the highest acid content and extra care should be taken to assure that the wood is finished and well sealed.

Where your bookshelves are placed in your home or office can also have a significant impact on care and longevity of your books.  In the next installment of this series I talk about how the environment has an impact on your collection.

Until then, Occupo Libri!

This is the first in a four part series on Care and Storage of your books.  Look for Part 2: Shelving next week.

Handling Your Books

Treat your books with the care that your valuable items deserve. Dirt such as grease and sweat, accumulate and can cause damage and staining. Keep your hands clean and handle your books gently. Most of the damage books receive, unless they are stored improperly or left out in the weather, is from daily handling. Treating your books with care and respect will go a long way in avoiding most damage.

A new book or one that is tightly bound is susceptible to having the spine cracked if forced to lay flat when first opened. A simple practice for “stretching” the spine will avoid this.

First, if the book has a dust jacket, remove it. Then, stand the closed book on its spine and let the covers fall open. Next, holding the text block (pages) upright take a small section from the front and let them fall open, gently pressing down along the fold with the fingers of one hand. Move to the back of the book and repeat the process continuing back and forth until you reach the middle. Finally, close the book and let it rest on its back for a moment. Now would also be a good time to place a protective sleeve on the dust jacket before putting it back on the book.

If a book doesn’t want to lay flat on its own, don’t force it. Certain styles of bindings, particularly side-stitched bindings, don’t allow a hardcover book to lay flat without breaking the spine. If the binding does not allow the book to lie flat easily an elegant solution is a Rehal.

Traditionally used to hold Islamic holy books, a Rehal is a “V” shaped book rest that supports the spine and holds the boards of a book at 45 º to 60º angle relieving undue stress on the spine. It’s ideal for a book that will not lay flat or oversized books too heavy or ungainly to hold for any length of time. Another solution is a ‘book pillow’, made of soft material filled with tiny polystyrene balls or foam rubber. It will provide good support for the spine in a range of positions.

Another very common cause of damage to the top of the spine, or “headcap”, is the practice of taking a book off the shelf by pulling on the top of the spine and tilting the book forward off the shelf. It is a much safer practice to slip your hand behind the book and push it out a bit then, grasping it in the middle, lift it off the shelf a bit and pull it out. This saves the stress and possible ripping of the headcap as well as the wear to the bottom of the boards by dragging it off the shelf.

If there is no room to slide you hand behind, push the two adjoining books inward or away creating a little room for you to grasp the middle of the front and back covers. 

Both these methods depend on a little planning beforehand on the way you shelve your books.  In the next part of this series I talk about just that.

Until then, Occupo Libri!

A book dummy is a book-shaped replacement made of a sturdy, light-weight material that takes the place of a volume that has been removed from its place on the shelf. As most caretakers of books know, allowing a book to lean at an angle is a sure way to cock a spine, that is, cause it to warp out of alignment. Books should always stand upright on their bottom edges, in a straight vertical line.

Often, when you remove a book from the shelf, the two books on either side will have a tendency to lean over. Typically this happens with paperbacks or more slender hardcovers but I’ve know larger books to want to take a little rest given the opportunity. How do you avoid this? Enter the book dummy.

Now I have to say that over the years I’ve been using a variety of different objects slipped in as surrogate book fillers. A piece of decorative ceramic, a crystal bud vase, even on rare occasions one of my sons plastic action figures have all been pressed into service. I have come to learn that all these, however practical or decorative, place an uneven pressure on the adjoining books and, if left for any length of time, can cause damage. Far better to use a book dummy.

They are available quite cheaply from library suppliers in a variety of heights and widths. Some come with a plastic sleeve along the spine used to indicate the title of the book being replaced but for personal use a nice idea is to customize the dummy in some decorative way.

Rosenberg and Marcowitz suggest covering the dummy with a piece of fabric that matches your décor or attaching thumbnail-sized photos or artwork along the spine. Printing up clever or satirical book spines on your home color printer is another suggestion. Just be sure that whatever you use will not react with the books on either side.

And hey, with the holidays coming up, a set of personalized book dummies may be just the thing for that hard-to-buy-for bibliophile.

You can purchase book dummies online at the following:

www.brodart.com
www.gaylordmart.com
www.demco.com

Of course ask five collectors or booksellers how to deal with the problem and you’ll undoubtedly get ten answers. I’ve use a couple of these methods with varying degrees of success. The technique is the same for paperbacks and hardcovers alike.

• Freezing
• Direct Sunlight
• A strong fan blowing on the book
• Enclose in a room with an ozone machine
• Enclose in a small space with a bowl of White Vinegar

Sealing the book in a plastic bag or air tight container with some kind of odor absorbent seems to be the most popular. What to use as the absorbent is the question. Here are some suggestions. Be careful not to let the absorbent come in contact with the book.

• Kitty Litter – many people swear by this one.
• Fabric Softener (dryer) sheets
• Baking Soda
• Cedar Chips
• Dr. School’s Oder Eater
• Activated Charcoal
• Old Newspaper
• Lysol (sprayed on a paper towel, not on the book!)
• All Revitalizer Cloths (kinda like the dryer sheets)
• Aftershave Lotion (If you don’t mind your books smelling like Old Spice, I suppose)

J. Godsy over at Bibliophile Bullpen sells a granulated Book Deodorizer product. It’s a recipe she developed herself and seems to have a good reputation. I haven’t tried it but probably will soon.

Brodart, the library supply folks also have a few Dehumidifiers and Air Freshener products.

One bookseller even tried a product called Smelleze™. It’s a deodorizer used by funeral parlors for removing embalming fluid odors. That’s a bit too creepy for me but if you’re game to try it you can find it at no-odor.com.

Any special tricks I haven’t mentioned? What’s worked for you?